Doodle Time

Many people ask me (quite often) "what do you do?" As a jewelry designer, the tasks are plentiful but the best part of my job is being able to sit down in a quiet space and sketch. That time has become more precious and harder to come by the last three years. I wish that I could share with you what I am working on presently - but that probably wouldn't be a good idea! I will keep it quiet until the product is complete.

However, I do have some older sketches of designs that are for sale on our website, http://www.saintbysarahjane.com/. We have just loaded quite few of these doodles onto our newly launched Facebook page. We thought it would be fun for you to see the variety and style of conceptualization that takes place before the product is made. There are a lot not so pretty (aka: sloppy) sketches thrown out onto the paper - just to make sure I get the idea down before it floats away. I can always go back to it later and develop it and expand on the concept. Finally I end up w/ a nice, clean technical drawing (which I don't post for fans because that is like giving away the recipe - right?!)!:)

To my dismay, we have mountains of conceptual drawings neatly tucked away into three ring binders - just itching to be made. It is very frustrating to be on my end of the process and see all these ideas buried on top of one another and not being able to produce them. It makes me sad. I suppose it is just like being a shopper and not being able to buy everything that you want. You have to edit and make choices for a variety of reasons. I have never been much of an "editor!"

Part III: What is the History of Saint?

Saint was established July 31st, 1997. Everything did not just fall into place. We had no production, we had no "collection" per say and we had no stores. What we did have was a lot of excitement!

My first design samples were cute. The very first piece was the Casa Cross which is still a strong seller in the line today. It was inspired by my move to the desert. In addition to the Casa Cross, I created a cowgirl angel (Trella), a cowboy frog (Jeramiah) and a cowboy elephant (Peanut). These pieces really helped us get our feet wet. We actually still produce and sell all of these designs to this day.

In addition to working on our first designs, I did a lot of research. I looked at a lot of other designers work, shopped a lot of stores and museums ....looking at a ton of jewelry. I was trying to discover my own look and inspiration. What I walked away with was a need to create a collection that made the person wearing my jewelry feel happy and warm. I also wanted people who looked at one of my designs being worn on another person to feel happy when they looked at them. My idea was to create pieces that could create connections between the wearer and the actual piece of jewelry as well as those around them. It was very important that the pieces had a story behind them with some sort of meaning that the wearer could relate to. I also wanted the quality and design of the pieces to be so exceptional that they would stand the test of time and trends and could be passed down from generation to generation. I liked the idea of mothers and daughters passing their Saint pieces down to one another and the pieces would always have intrinsic value as well as a strong design aesthetic.

After I had figured out what the concept was for my collection, we all agreed we needed a name. I was never comfortable using my name for the collection. I preferred using a different name that had meaning and could work well with the product. My parents and I settled on "Saint." We liked that it was a strong word. When we hear the word "Saint" we think of someone who is very strong and has integrity and character. We also liked that it was graphically very strong and easy to remember. So there it was!

My first real collection was actually the blossom. I named the collection the Tuilleries Collection and it was a total of four pieces (ring, cuff, earring and pendant). My next grouping of about six styles was with the bee (Buzz) which is what Saint is most well known for today.

Meanwhile, my parents and I are dealing with the fact that we have no production capabilities and everything we are doing right now is in the basement of a very talented jewelers home in Kansas!

After having our samples made of the bee and blossoms designs we were determined to get into some stores. We made an appointment with Neiman Marcus jewelry buyers to show them our collection. We were thrilled that they loved the line but regretfully said "you only have a handful of styles here. You will need at least sixty to eighty pieces to fill one of our cases." They politely asked us to stay in touch and come back when we have our collection completed. WOW!

We all worked relentlessly the next four months and we came up with enough styles to merit a second meeting with the buyers. This time they were pleased with the collection but said it is brand new and never tested in the market and asked us to test it in their stores for the next six months by doing trunk shows at all their stores. So, for the next six months we traveled with the collection to all the stores and introduced Saint to the company. All said and done, after working out a lot of kinks and surrounding ourselves with people that had experience in the jewelry business we were able to launch Saint in eleven doors the following season.

Exceedingly pleased with opening our new account, we had to deal with the issue of being able to actually fulfill orders. While all of this was going on, I was trying to find someone in Phoenix to make my designs and having no luck. Everyone I worked with was either not up to the skill level that we needed, or were not able to handle the ammout of pieces we would be needing or they would start out with great quality work but it would slowly regress. I was extremely frustrating. In the meantime, my parents continued to work with the same jeweler in Kansas and he was producing excellent work. We finally decided to just do the manunfacturing ourselves in Kansas, and invested in our own equipment and jewelers. This enabled us to created quality, handmade designs in the United States at our own whim.

The business operates as such from there on out. The most significant changes are the addition of my sister Ashley and my brother-in-law Lance to the business. They both have played integral roles in keeping Saint running and thriving. I would be remiss if I didn't mention Sara G. who heads up our production and accounts (she is quite a woman).

Now thirteen years later in our journey, we are proud to still be in business and we count our blessings everyday. We value every sale and every customer. Our relationship with our customers is extremely important to us. We want our customers to not only enjoy their Saint pieces but to enjoy their experience with Saint. It goes hand in hand with each piece we sell.

If you have any questions or want to learn more about Saint please feel free to write me!

Part II: What Made Me Want to Become a Jewelry Designer? How I Got From A to B!

After I graduated from college I moved to New York City and began working as a design associate for the most AMAZING artist and designer, Barry Kieselstein-Cord. To have the opportunity to work under his influence for four years after college was a very formative experience. When I moved to New York City, my intentions were to dive deep into the world of fashion. I was twenty two years old and soooo excited about my career. Well - life has unexpected surprises and my introduction to Barry Kieselstein-Cord was one of the most wonderful!

Prior to moving to New York City, I was planning on studying abroad in Paris, France. I was enrolled in an overseas program that focused soley on the fine art of haute couture. The program was specifically geared towards studying all the great coutiers in Paris and potentially meeting a few, as well as visiting their salons. Words cannot describe how excited I was!! Well, before I left for my Parisian excursion, my mom thought it would be fun if she and I and my sister Ashley all took a trip to Sante Fe, New Mexico. One afternoon, we were eating lunch at Cafe Pasqual's and a stunning woman walked up to our table and asked me where I had purchased my belt buckle. I was wearing a Barry Kieselstein-Cord bunny buckle. It was one of his earliest buckles -and it was also my moms! I laughed and told her that it was actually my moms. My mom and I were fumbling w/ the pronunciation of Barry's last name and we kept laughing. She laughed and introduced herself as CeCe, Barry's wife and then pointed to Barry sitting at a table near by. She was extremely kind to us as my mom explained she purchased the buckle many years ago at the Beverly Hills Neiman Marcus. CeCe then explained that it was indeed an older buckle and when they saw me wearing it they were concerned that it was a knock off! Soooo, to make a long story short, upon my moms insistence, I went up to Mr. Cord and introduced myself. I remember being a total, nervous wreck! He was very kind and encouraging about my moving to New York City and he actually suggested that I contact him when I arrived. Well, upon returning home from our trip, being the young 'eager beaver' that I was, I immediately wrote him a letter of appreciation and inserted a few of my sketches for his enjoyment! I thought "Gosh, you never know!"

It turns out that you really don't ever know! I received a call from his assistant a month later requesting to come by for an actual meeting and interview when I made it to New York. WOW! OH! WOW! I was flabberghasted! When I finally made it to New York, I had some decent interviews lined up w/ various designers. However the one I was most excited about was his. I had so much respect for his creativity, his choice to use the finest materials and the high quality, artisan craftsmanship in each one of his designs. I remember thinking it would be like going to graduate school in design if I had the opportunity to work under him. Really, it would be a very unique experience. The idea of having an experience like that became a reality after our meeting. I was walking on clouds, as he had offered me the opportunity to work on the development of his exclusive, couture handbag collection.

I spent the next four years at his studio. I absolutely loved my job. I truly enjoyed working with Barry. He was funny, fun, creative and I was always captivated by the way his mind worked when it came to developing concepts.

However, after living in New York City for four years, I was struggling to find peace within myself. Although I was very happy with my career and all that I was involved with, my personal life was not so good. I was a lonely. I missed my midwestern roots. I missed my family. I missed blue skies and quiet life. My parents had recently purchased a home in Arizona and invited me out for a visit. I think from the moment I stepped off the plane and onto the tarmack I was sold on desert life. I instantly loved it. I instantly wanted to be in Arizona all the time. I loved the saguaros, the skies, the wide open spaces, the tumble weeds, the road runners, the hiking, the mountains and the weather wasn't so bad either! :)

It was then that I knew where I wanted to be. I wanted to be near my family. To think my whole life all I had wanted to do was to move far away to New York City and I finally made it there and I realized that I wanted to move back close to home! Call me complicated! I remember privately bursting into tears with my mom during my visit. I shared with her my unhappiness. I explained that I didn't even realized how unhappy I was until I arrived here! I returned home to New York with the seed planted. My dilemma was that I loved my job and my career but personally I wasn't doing so great. I had to figure out how to continue being creative, doing something that I loved but where I would be happy.

On a subsequent visit with my parents, over breakfast my father suggested that I try designing jewelry. He felt it would be something that I would be good at and enjoy. He felt that he and my mom could help me with starting a collection/business of our own. He said he always wanted to do something fun like that and was excited to give it a try. He was approaching retirement from a career as a periodontist that had many years of experience in wax, model making and casting. In addition, he was a successful businessman on an array of avenues. My mom used to be a jewelry designer and was quite good! She had her own business while I was in grade school and high school. She started out making clay pieces and eventually sterling silver. Her designs were sold in a few stores locally as well as a Saks Fifth Avenue. Combining my design skills with my moms and my dads business sense and periodontal background, the three of us decided that we all had something great to contribute.

It still astounds me that my parents believed in my talents enough to partake in an endeavor of starting a business together, while having my ideas and inspirations being the cornerstone of the business. They are two crazy people! :)

To summarize, "What made me want to become a jewelry designer?" The answer is probably that I wanted to become a jewelry designer because it sounded like a lot of fun and it meant that I would potentially be a much happier person because I would be able to do what I enjoy most, which is to be creative and to live where I would be most happy - in Arizona with my family close by!

I am very happy in my life today and I love being a jewelry designer. I wouldn't have it any other way. What I love most about being a jewelry designer is that it is such a personal experience. Designing clothing is so much fun - but being able to create a special ring or pendant has an intrinsic value to me. When I create a piece of jewelry for someone, I know that it is going to have meaning to them. I love that it is made out precious materials. I love that it may be a sentimental token given or purchased with symbolism behind it. Knowing that one of my jewelry designs could potentially be passed on for generations out of love and family and friendship is very fulfilling. Jewelry, unlike most clothing, evokes strong personal emotions and it has a pyschological effect that is heartfelt. As I say, I like to think of my designs as small embraces.

Stay tuned for Part III: " What is the History of Saint?"

Part I: What Made Me Want to Become A Designer?

This is a question I get asked quite a bit. To be honest, I wanted to be a fashion designer since I was in junior high. I always had an affection for clothing and accessories. My mother laughs as she reflects over my youth and says "it was so obvious in retrospect that you were interested in fashion even as a young girl - but I never realized it at the time." She remembers how, as an adolescent, I was constantly trying on my clothes and mixing and matching them. I would continually be organizing and "merchandising" my closet. One of the things I loved to do was to venture into my moms closet and create new looks for her to wear. She would lay on her bed and I would put together outfits for her to wear. She would challenge me to coordinate ensembles with items that she found herself not wearing. I was hooked on fashion magazines. At that time in my life I slaved over Vogue Magazine, W Magazine and of course Seventeen Magazine. I loved putting together notebooks of tear sheets of my favorite fashion shoots. My closet walls were filled w/ tear outs of looks that I thought were interesting or creative. I had to wear a uniform to school. I think that almost encouraged my creativity. Trying so hard to find a way to be fashionable and unique while adhering to a school dress code was definitely a challenge I was up for. We had "free dress" day the last Friday of each month and I would spend the three weeks prior figuring out what to wear for that one day!! Oh to be sixteen again!

For me, the idea of becoming a fashion designer or studying fashion design was a total mirage. I never even considered a career in fashion or let alone a degree. It was just too "New York" - and that was soooo over my little head! I grew up in a lovely midwestern town of 400,000 people and although times have definitely changed, at that time, fashion was just not a serious career topic! I recall taking a sewing class at my high school, Kapaun Mount Carmel, and I remember the nun who taught the class, Sister Lucy, just thought I was a wild woman with the dress pattern I chose and fabric I purchased. Fashion was a joyful passion and hobby. It was never something I considered taking seriously because a career opportunity in that area was just not in my environment.

The reality finally sunk in when I was attending my second college, The Savannah College of Art and Design (I attended Creighton University in Omaha, Nebraska my freshman year), and was pursuing a degree in interior design. I just wasn't "into it" like I had thought I would be. I was working part time in a clothing store on Hilton Head Island, South Carolina and just loved, loved, loved clothing! Still! It just finally hit me that I needed to be studying fashion design...not communication, not interior design....FASHION! That is when it all came together for me. I immediately transferred schools for my third and last time. I received my bachelors degree from Woodbury University with a degree in fashion design. I loved every minute of school from there on out. I excelled in all my classes and graduated with honors. Go figure!

Stay tuned for Part II: What Made Me Want to Become A Jewelry Designer?

Times Have Changed But We Have Not

Saint first opened its doors approximately thirteen years ago. It is just amazing how we have come up against obstacle after obstacle and are still able to ride those waves. On that note, I will say that we have never come up against an "economic wave" such as the one that we are all experiencing more or less "together."

Metal prices have literally tripled and quadrupled in the last year and it really can affect the way a company will choose to design their product and the inventory levels they keep. We are a small, artisan company. Everything is still produced in house and under our watch. In some aspects this has helped us and in other ways it has really challenged us more than ever, in the last year.

They type of product we are known for, as well as appreciated for, have been pieces of substantial weight and extra detailing on both the inside and outside of the piece. We are seeing that a lot of "of the moment" designers are coming out with designs that are of extreme light weight and hardly any workmanship. A "new look," if you will. It is always refreshing to see new looks and I myself greatly appreciate simplicity. I suspect that there are several reasons that this lighter weight and more streamlined look have become such a popular direction for jewelry designers and their investors. I dare say that the main reason isn't about creativity but rather business and the bottom line.

If you can create a very simple and light weight design - it will cost you a lot less in labor and metal costs and will be much cheaper and easier to produce overseas, as well as a lot lighter weight to ship back to the U.S. Therefore that gives you extra money to put into your packaging and branding. In the end you have put very little money or value into a product with a fancy designer name and packaging and can then attach a handsome retail price tag. In other words the product that the consumer is being encouraged to purchase is the popularity of the brand name and not the quality of the product. Does this make sense?

Saint, is waaaaay behind the trend when it comes to making a buck! Saint is a small, American made, artisan, design house with extremely high quality materials, artisan design details and very small domestic production runs.

As a Saint collector or as a new Saint customer, you are going to really appreciate these qualities in that you are investing in a piece of work that not only has intrinsic value but your Saint pieces will retain their value as well as their aesthetic.

I share this with you so that you can become an educated jewelry shopper. The next time you are shopping and you see a pair of tissue-thin silver earrings in a handsome box that are the same price as a pair of heftier earrings with hand carved patterns and grill work on the underside as well as solid 18k gold details (not 18k painted on details or stamped on details) you will at least know by these simple features which pair of earrings is more valuable in metal and workmanship. You may go ahead and purchase the lighter weight, simpler earring (like I said, I love simplicity myself) but you will at least KNOW what you are spending your money on.

The Age of Exposure: Is Fashion's Mystique Gone? - WWD.com

The Age of Exposure: Is Fashion's Mystique Gone? - WWD.com

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This is a very interesting article. The title pretty much explains the content. I go back and forth on the topic and it is something that I have been thinking about on and off for the last few years. I was delighted to finally see someone take a stab at it.

Personally, I do feel that fashion has lost its mystique. It seems as though it has become "just another trade," a very big and valuable trade to our economy both globally and domestically.

I think these days, real live actual designers and assistant designers are very challenged to be "designers." Because it is such a fast pace, bottom line driven industry, even designers find themselves spitting out the same pants "with a twist" each season (all made overseas of course). Everything is all geared towards making a profit and therefore the concept of just creating to create is a very short catwalk. Don't get me wrong, we can still be creative with parameters (like cost of goods sold, global or domestic production, fabrications, findings, materials and quantities). In other words "the collection you designed looks great but we can't take it to market until you replace the buttons, change the sleeve, hem, change the collar, remove the pleats, find a different fabric, take out the lining, use a different color....great, now we can sell it!" Quite a collaboration! Not much mystique and glamour in that!

I suppose every industry has its "commercialization side." As a jewelry designer, whose pieces are all hand carved and still made one at a time in the United States, it is frustrating at times to see another collection receiving accolades and notoriety for its "creativity and craftsmanship" when I know full well that it was machine designed, mass produced and made overseas. It has a cool name, gorgeous packaging and great advertising. It is all about the brand. The product itself it truly a minor detail or perhaps an after thought. These collections receive the hype, great billing and "so and so is wearing it." I have to tell myself "they are a different business than the one I am in. We are not the same." Most times, years later these collections fade away or have serious problems with returns because of "poor construction." On the contrary, we seem to be in the "design business." We are creating a product and our business is about our product. I am really proud of that. I honesty don't think there are many of us left. Why? It is too hard in today's retail environment.


The "designer world" is totally accessible to everyone in today's world; the internet and cable tv, even tv stations fully dedicated to fashion around the clock, and literally hundreds of fashion magazines. Everyone one knows every designer and all about that designers life. What was once an exciting and alluring topic is now COMMON KNOWLEDGE.

I have to say when I see Lindsay Lohen half heartedly taking on the role of "Creative Director" for a design house like Ungaro...my heart drops all the waaaaaaaay, waaaay, way down to the tip of my toes. There is so much amazing talent in our world (not that she isn't talented). Based on the personal experience of being an educated designer with 20 plus years of experience in the creative process, I would just prefer to see someone that is in our industry and has spent the last ten years or more or or even less, have the opportunity to take on such a role and have Ms. Lohen start her own collection under HER OWN NAME. HOWEVER, the diplomatic side of my brain says we live in a capitalistic, democracy, for which I am thankful - so in the end, if that is what the house of Ungaro wants to do - then so be it!! It is really Ungaro that made this decision and we all know that these days everything is all about the bottom line.

I do think that some lines, such as Gwen Stefani's L.A.M.B. are genuinely created by the name behind the brand. I think you can just tell that Victoria Beckham and Gwen Stefani are truly passionate about their collections and even though they might not be the ones sitting behind the sewing machine, they are in the studio creating and doing a great job, I might add.

So, I guess when it comes down to it, the mystique is gone. To quote Marc Jacobs "It is what it is." It really is all about commerce and moving product. Our world is definitely changing. Even designers have to feed the beast if they want to prosper.

Why The Name Saint?

A common question that myself or anyone working with Saint gets routinely asked is "why is the collection named Saint?"

It is a good question and when I look back to the genesis of Saint, I ask myself "why was it so important for me to come up with a name that wasn't my own?"
First of all, the idea of coming up with a name for a collection that isn't your own name is in itself an exciting creative process. I remember brainstorming for a name and I also remember what an enriching process it was in helping me establish and identify the company brand. I think without the brand name the identity of the collection would not be as linear as it is today. We know who we are. We know what we create. We know our standards.

With much deliberation, we (my parents and I) all agreed on the monosyllabic name "Saint." WHY??? First and foremost it exudes a feeling of strength and integrity. The word Saint describes someone who is or has done something above and beyond good. Saint is a reminder to aspire to be better than you already are, to excel and succeed.

Graphically it was very strong.

It was in my heart to create a collection that was able to balance being timeless in style, sophisticated, meaningful enough to be worthy of passing through generations, well constructed and substantial, while at the same time being able to humorously add delicate touches of whimsy. Knowing this, I liked how the word Saint had both a yin and yang quality to it, in that it is very strong and innocent.

I still feel that the name Saint and the jewelry reflects all that it set out to be. We are 14 years in business and the name still runs strong and it still coincides naturally to our collections.

About Saint by Sarah Jane

It all started with Sarah Jane’s Blossom line, launched in 1997, symbolizing new found friendships, laughter and growth. Since then, her designs have expanded to 15 different motifs like Bee, Butterfly, Turtle, Ladybug and many others, all made with the finest materials. Each motif has it's own inspirational story to go with it.

Every piece produced at Saint is designed by Sarah Jane and handcrafted using quality metals like Gold and Sterling Silver. When you put one on you can really appreciate the love and care that goes into it.

Gemstones are individually hand carved and include aquamarine, pink tourmaline, green tourmaline, London blue topaz, yellow beryl, amethyst, peridot, crystal quartz, red garnet, citrine, yellow sapphire, ruby, white and Tahitian pearls - Just to name a few. Oh, and lets not forget Diamonds!

If you're interested in learning more about Saint by Sarah Jane's hand crafted designer jewelry and the amazing woman behind it, visit us at SaintBySarahJane.com.